I'd heard there were waves in Cox's Bazar - in fact there is nothing blocking this part of Bangladesh from direct exposure to everything the Indian Ocean has to offer (which is some of the best surf in the world). So it should have epic exposure. Alas, there's a massive continental shelf sticking out about 150 miles - probably made up of silt and minerals from millennia of deposits from the great river systems pouring down from the Himalayas. The end result is that open ocean swells (that bring the waves) loose their energy as they march along continental shelves, robbing said waves of their final harumph as they hit a coast somewhere. Still, some do make it in, and break on what they proudly call the "longest beach in the world".
And along this coastline, between Chittagong port and the Myanmar border (and the Rakhine state where the refugees once lived) are endless beach breaks and a local surf community that is remarkable and unique in so many ways. Hugely refreshing compared to the commercialised, macho-bravado and highly competitive vibe almost everywhere else.
So here follows a little window into this semi-topical surf world, stuck as it is between the wretched semi-development that comes with rapid urbanisation, serious social protection problems (like child labour, child marriage, urban poverty, corruption) and the once-lush forest that covered the landscape.
Travelling surfers have been visiting for years and many have left boards. Since the refugee crisis got worse in 2017, thousands of internationals have been through and some of them brought more. This has fed a surf community with equipment (that constantly needs repairs - which is how I spend some of my time, helping fix broken boards, a skill most surfers have had to pick up to prevent boards absorbing water and falling to pieces). As these kids grew up into young adults some became really talented surfers. None are sponsored and only about 1% have travelled out of the country for surf.
 |
A surf safari, where one of 4 "surf clubs" in Cox's organises a bunch of jeeps and we all pile in and head down the coast in search of better waves. If this was anywhere else it would be notorious for bringing a huge crowd to some isolated secret spot. But here, there are no other surfers on any spots. When we get there, it's kind of messy,with waves everywhere, meaning there is plenty of space for everyone to have a shot. Lots of different breaks. Food and water organised, as well as a volleyball net and what a day that was. (until the jeeps that brought us left as soon as they had dropped us off and we had to organise back up vehicles for the piles of boards, kids and equipment. Half of hitched back. Ah well).
|
 |
| Amazing that a few girls have been allowed, even encouraged to start surfing here. And I say amazing because, except for the mega rich, teenage girls across South Asia are barely seen once they turn 10 or so. This is a cultural phenomenon, not a religious one, I wish to point out. And it's the same in the Rohingya community. Essentially as soon a girl comes of age / starts menstruation they are kept in virtual isolation until marriage. Some families do allow them to go to school during this time, but attendance drops massively. The pandemic didn't help but let's not go there. Anyway, somehow ended up in one of the jeeps with this lot - such cool energy; some of them get to attend the Jaago school and are part of the WFP programme, which is great. (more on that WFP project below..) |
 |
Nasima here is 14. She surfs pretty good and given the opportunity could go on to get sponsored... Represent her nation at the Olympics? Who knows. But it's not easy to change cultural norms and family-community expectations on girls, what they are expected to do, what would be seriously frowned upon; practices that have been in place for what feels like centuries. In any case, if there's going to be change it has to come from within their community, not from outside. After so long I've learned that trying to change how people think about a situation can be counter-productive, superficial, meaningless and actually presumptuous, as if our attitudes to a certain approach are better or smarter.
|
 |
| A shout out to Richard here, Americano and head of World Food Programme (WFP) in country who has been behind a small project to support local surf kids with accessing education (that most never had the chance for) at a centre run by Jaago, a local NGO. The kids also get training in life-guarding / ocean safety, and a bit of surf coaching. Once a month the kids, or their families, get to collect a small food package, or rather they can chose from different items. So good to see head of a major UN agency a) in the water and b) thinking out of the box and creatively about food security in this part of the local community. |
 |
| Sifat - also deserves mention here - he runs one of the 4 clubs, which is a surf and life-saving initiative really. He works as a life guard and trainer, and is out there every morning, every weekend drilling kids on ocean rescue. For sure needs a dedicated story board, together with the photos of all the students going for it. |
Very few kids own their own boards, rather they are associated with one of the clubs, who have accumulated collections of boards from visiting surfers, aid workers and, well that's it. There is a national surfing association in Dhaka, but they're never seen or heard of until there is a competition, or a trip abroad and then they want a cut of the pie. None of them surf.
 |
| Bunch of the kids from Rashad's club (Rashad with green shirt on his head there), on of the surf safaris. |
 |
| Shagor, one of the top 3 local riders. Flowing, energetic, explosive on the waves; this pic doesn't really do justice. He should definitely be sponsored, I reckon the top 3 should be. I just have no idea how to get sponsors interested. If you do - let me know! |
 |
One of the spots down the coast, with a bit of a reef and real potential on the right tide.
Sadly, we didn't stop here that day.. But it does show what is possible.. |
I could go on and on. I actually have loads of other pics somewhere, between phones, cameras and computers. Let me know what you want more of, and i'll flow.
 |
| No story about Cox's is complete without the sky, in rainy season especially, which just switches on after the sun drops over that horizon. |
